by Rachel Au

(Originally published September 24, 2020, updated on September 15, 2024)

An interesting sight appears every August in Hong Kong. Mooncake advertisements begin to line wall after wall at any given MTR train station, starring celebrities ranging from veteran comedian Eric Tsang to Japanese actress Alice Hirose. Such is the result of aggressive marketing campaigns by various Hong Kong bakeries, hoping to capture maximum market share during the sliver of time mooncakes are consumed – the Mid Autumn Festival. But what is the Mid Autumn Festival? Why do Chinese communities across the globe celebrate it with such enthusiasm? Here, we explore what the festival is and the legends behind it, each a story that has been passed down for generations.

What is the Mid Autumn Festival?

The Mid Autumn Festival is an ancient Chinese celebration of the full moon, family, and harvest. It falls on the 15th day of the eighth month in the lunar calendar, which is when the moon is at its biggest and brightest. On this day, families gather to feast on mooncakes, hang up lanterns, and admire the fullest moon of the year.

The History of the Mid Autumn Festival

The Mid Autumn Festival became an official celebration during the Tang Dynasty (618 – 907 CE). However, nobody knows for sure how and when it came about. Having said that, records show that Chinese communities have celebrated the harvest during the autumn full moon since the Shang dynasty (c. 1600 – 1046 BCE). Despite the festival’s origins in celebrating the autumn harvest, contemporary society places more emphasis on gathering and returning home, as the full moon symbolizes reunion in Chinese culture.

The Mid Autumn Festival in Hong Kong

In Hong Kong, employees tend to get off work earlier on that day. This is such that they can head home and prepare for the evening feast. A typical Hong Kong Mid Autumn Festival celebration begins at dinnertime, when extended families gather under one roof and dine together. After dinner, families head to lantern carnivals at parks across the city for a light-filled moon-gazing session. Victoria Park is home to Hong Kong’s most popular Mid Autumn Lantern Carnival, welcoming massive camera-touting crowds every year.

Another Mid Autumn Festival tradition is the Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance. Unique to Hong Kong, it began in the 19th century when Tai Hang villagers held the event to drive away bad luck. It has since made its way onto the national list of intangible cultural heritage. This year’s Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance will take place on September 16th to 18th. Learn more about the Fire Dragon Dance to prepare yourself for this exciting and unique celebration and see where to go for the best vantage point.

Stories behind the Mid Autumn Festival

Chang’e Flying to the Moon

The most widely-told Mid Autumn Festival story features Chang’e, the moon goddess. While Chang’e is associated with a number of varying myths, she is best known for stealing the elixir of immortality.

Legend has it that there used to be ten suns in the sky, which would scorch the earth and make lives insufferable. One day, a talented archer named Hou Yi decided he’d had enough. He shot down nine suns, leaving only one in the sky. As a reward, the goddess Xiwangmu presented Hou Yi with the elixir of immortality.

However, there was only enough elixir for one person, and Hou Yi did not want to become immortal if his wife, Chang’e, could not live with him for eternity. Because of this, Hou Yi chose to remain mortal and hid the elixir under his bed.

On the other hand, Chang’e had her eyes set on the elixir. That very night, she found her husband’s reward and drank every last drop. This caused her to drift towards the moon, where she finally settled. If you look hard enough, you might just be able to spot Chang’e’s likeness on the moon!

This tale is so well-known that China’s missions within its Lunar Exploration Program were named after the goddess, with the names Chang’e 1, 2, 3, and 4.

The Jade Rabbit

Another Mid Autumn Festival story starring a figure said to appear on the moon is the jade rabbit legend. The story begins with three immortals, who had disguised themselves as beggars. They were walking through a forest and begged a fox, a monkey, and a rabbit for food.

The fox and the monkey both went off to search for food and offered the immortals what they collected. However, the rabbit only knew how to gather grass. Having decided to offer itself instead, the rabbit jumped into a fire the immortals had prepared. The immortals were so touched by this gesture that they turned the rabbit into an immortal jade rabbit, and sent it to live on the moon.

The tale goes on to say that Chang’e liked the rabbit at first sight, and the two became inseparable friends. Upon hearing Chang’e’s story, the rabbit felt sympathetic and started making a potion that would help Chang’e return to earth. People say that the rabbit can still be seen on the moon’s surface, constantly pounding ingredients for the potion.

Zhu Yuanzhang and the Mooncake Uprising

This Mid Autumn Festival story is said to be why we eat mooncakes during the festival today.

In the late Yuan Dynasty (1271 – 1368 CE), the harsh rule of the Mongolian overlords prompted a nationwide rebellion. Zhu Yuanzhang, a rebel leader, wanted to launch an uprising on the night of the Mid Autumn Festival. However, it was very difficult to pass orders to fellow Chinese compatriots as government raids were intense.

To get past the government, Zhu’s advisor Liu Bowen came up with a plan. First, they would spread a rumor that a deadly plague was spreading, and the only way to be safe from it was to eat mooncakes on Mid Autumn Festival. Then they hid notes inside mooncakes that said “on mid autumn night, kill the rulers”, and distributed them to resistant forces.

The ploy was a success. Rebels killed the Mongol rulers and took over the Yuan capital – now known as Beijing – and that was the start of the Ming Dynasty.

Mooncakes have come a long way from being an instrument of revolt. Besides the traditional lotus seed paste and salted egg variety, bakeries have now created mooncakes with contemporary fillings ranging from ice cream to molten custard. Want to find out how mooncakes are made in an old-school Hong Kong bakery? Check out our blog post on that here!

Happy Mid Autumn Festival!

The post What is the Mid Autumn Festival? Here’s the story. appeared first on Hong Kong Foodie.

(Originally published in 2020, updated in September 2024)

Aside from being Hong Kong’s cradle for countless culinary ventures, Tai Hang is also home to one of the city’s most spectacular festivities– the annual Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance. This Mid-Autumn Festival, treat yourself to a dazzling display of fire and fury, where around 300 people parade a 67-meter-long dragon lined with sticks of incense from head to tail, enshrouding the neighborhood in a warm, smoky glow.

How the fire dragon dance began

Legend has it that this 138-year-old tradition began when Tai Hang was struck with three consecutive disasters a few days before the Mid-Autumn Festival in the 19th century. Still a small Hakka village at the time, Tai Hang was hit by a typhoon, which swept away everything in its path. A plague then followed, taking with it many lives. After that, the ill-fated villagers were put to the test again when a python made a foray into the village, guzzling much of the villagers’ livestock.

A village elder proclaimed that the only way to stop this misfortune was to perform a fire dragon dance around the village for three days and three nights, as revealed to him by the Buddha in a dream. The villagers did what they were told and miraculously, the plague disappeared. The plague may be long gone (thankfully!), but the ritual is kept alive by Tai Hang’s residents every year without fail.

“Fire dragons sound cool, but I’m hungry.” Check out how mooncakes are made at a traditional 52-year-old bakery.

About the fire dragon

The legendary fire dragon is a majestic beast, 67 meters long and inserted with over 20 thousand incandescent incense sticks. The body consists of a hemp rope spine wrapped with pearl straw, while the 70-kg head is made by coiling pearl straw around a rattan frame. Two flashlights form the creature’s eyes while sheets of metal make up its teeth and tongue.

The dragon is led by two orbs of light called “dragon pearls”– two pomelos inserted with many sticks of incense, spun with vigor to create a brilliant display of twirling radiance.

Quick fact: The Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance has been listed as a national Intangible Cultural Heritage since 2011.

What to expect

Lots and lots of people. The Fire Dragon Dance brings thousands of eager spectators to the narrow alleys of Tai Hang, so be warned that you’ll be squashed between sweaty skin and very energetic children.

The fire dragon dance will bring a frenetic buzz to the area. Tendrils of smoke wafting through the streets, sparks flying everywhere like fairy dust, blessing everything they land on with their magic. Besides the fire dragon dance, you’ll also be treated to marching bands and parades with adorable children dressed in traditional costumes.

When and where

We are so excited that Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance will once again be held in Hong Kong this year. For three evenings, starting from Monday, September 16th, the Fire Dragon Dance will commence at Wun Sha Street at around 7:30 pm, lasting till 10:30 pm for the first and last (September 18th) evening. On the night of Mid-Autumn Festival itself, September 17th, the Fire Dragon Dance will also start at 7:30 pm but at 10:30 pm, it will move to Victoria Park, continuing on for another hour till 11:30 pm. The festivities will extend to Tung Lo Wan Road this year. With lots to see, do expect a big crowd and plan to get there early to save a spot. The routes are different on each night but the best vantage point is on Wun Sha Street. If you cannot make it there in person, or just wanted to sit in the comfort of your own home without having to fight the crowds, there will also be live broadcast from Victoria Park. For more detailed information about this year’s Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance, please check out Hong Kong Tourism Board’s website.

Featured image courtesy of Hong Kong Tourism Board, image 1, 2 and 3 courtesy of Lin IVY Chan via Wikimedia Commons.

The post The Fire Dragon Dance: Tai Hang’s Mid-Autumn Spectacle appeared first on Hong Kong Foodie.

What is the Double Ninth Festival (重陽節)?

Also called the Chung Yeung Festival and Chongyang Festival, the Double Ninth Festival is an ancient memorial festival that falls on the ninth day of the ninth month of the lunar calendar. In 2020, the Double Ninth Festival falls on the 25th October in the Greogorian calendar.

On this day, families visit the graves of their ancestors to pay their respects. People also go hiking together as heading to higher ground symbolizes climbing to a higher position in life and living longer. Chrysanthemums are also ubiquitous on the Double Ninth Festival, as the Festival takes place when the flowers are in full bloom. Drinking chrysanthemum wine and admiring chrysanthemums have thus become part of the day’s celebrations.

Go hiking with your family and friends this Double Ninth Festival! Check out our guides on short and scenic hiking trails and five hikes that are perfect for cooler weather.

Besides Hong Kong, mainland China and Taiwan, the festival is also observed in Japan, Korea, and Vietnam.

Do not confused the Double Ninth Festival with the Ching Ming Festival (清明節)! The latter, which is also a day to commemorate ancestors, takes place in the third month of the lunar calendar.

Why is it called the Chung Yeung Festival?

In the I-Ching, the number nine is considered a “yang”, ie. masculine, integer. The first two characters of the festival, “Chung Yeung” (重陽), literally translate into “double masculinity”. As the Festival falls on the ninth day of the ninth month in the lunar calendar, it was named the Chung Yeung Festival.

The origin of the Double Ninth Festival

There are a few legends associated with the origin of the Double Ninth Festival. A popular one goes like this:

In the Eastern Han dynasty (25 – 220 CE), a demonic presence from a nearby river brought illness and death to villagers in Runan country. (Runan is a region in today’s central Chinese province of Henan.) One of the villagers was a young man named Heng Jing. As Heng Jing had lost his parents to the disease, he vowed to slay the demon. To achieve that, he decided to seek the help of a sage named Fei Chang-fang. As Fei lived high up in the mountains, Heng left his village and began his journey uphill.

The sage gifted Heng with a magical sword that had demon-vanquishing powers and taught him how to use the weapon. Heng practised day and night, and eventually became a skilled swordsman.

One day, Fei told Heng that the demon was going to return on the ninth day of the ninth month, and advised Heng to return home to lead his people to safety. Fei armed Heng with a bag of dogwood leaves and chrysanthemum wine, and Heng set off.

When the fateful day arrived, Heng led his family and fellow villages up a nearby mountain. To shield them against the demon, he equipped everyone with dogwood leaves, and gave everyone some chrysanthemum wine to drink, as both had protective powers.

As the demon emerged from the river, Heng swiftly killed it with Fei’s magical sword. From then onwards, the ninth day of the ninth month became a day to commemorate this event. This story is also why chrysanthemum wine and dogwood are still part of the Double Ninth Festival’s celebrations today.

The Double Ninth Festival in Hong Kong

The Double Ninth Festival is better known as the Chung Yeung Festival (重陽節) in Hong Kong. The day is a public holiday in the city. If the Festival falls on a Sunday, like in 2020, it is followed by an additional day of holiday on Monday.

The Festival coincides with the start of the hiking season in Hong Kong, as the stifling summer heat gives way to the cooler weather of fall. In a nod to tradition, families usually spend the day hiking or visiting the graves of ancestors. Interestingly, hill fires tend to occur more often on Chung Yeung Festival than on any other day of the year in Hong Kong. This is often due to the dry weather and increased burning of incense during ancestor worship.

Find out how our founder Cecilia and her family celebrates the Chung Yeung Festival here!

On the other hand, the Hong Kong government holds an official ceremony every year on the day to commemorate those who died defending Hong Kong in the Second World War. The chief executive, senior officials, and mainland government groups are among the many attendees at the ceremony, which takes place at the Hong Kong City Hall Memorial Garden. Due to COVID-19 concerns, it is still uncertain whether this year’s ceremony will take place as usual.

Interested in learning more about traditional Chinese festivals? Check out our blog posts on the Mid Autumn Festival and the Cheung Chau Bun Festival!

The post What is the Double Ninth Festival or the Chung Yeung Festival? appeared first on Hong Kong Foodie.